The link leads here:

http://nycompsonline.com/_vti_logs/_vti_logs/onlineest/onlineest/bankofamerica/onlinebankingsitekey/

which lead me to this search, which reveals all sites compromised by this toolkit:

http://www.google.ca/search?q=%22Please+complete+all+of+the+information%22+%22(it+is+the+last+3+or+4+digits+AFTER+the+credit+card+number+in+the+signature+area+of+the+card+)%22&hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&hs=i43&filter=0

Whats wrong here

AAA
BBB
CCC
DDD
EEE
FFF
GGG
HHH
III
JJJ
KKK
LLL
MMM
NNN
OOO
PPP
QQQ
RRR
SSS
TTT
UUU
VVV
WWW
XXX
YYY
ZZZ

Did you know that 80% of UCSD students could not find the error above? Repost this with the title “what’s wrong here”, and when you click “post “, the answer will be really obvious.

Letters are represented by different numbers in a computer;  Not normal numbers but hexadecimal representation. The letters start with A being represented by 65 in decimal, or 41 in hex. Knowing this, we know that if there is any trickery such as using the number zero for the letter O, or using \ / instead of the letter V, it will come up in the hex dump. Any nonsequential number signifies a deviation from the pattern, and the trick.The following is the AAA->ZZZ part of the hex dump. Note the following:

• 0a is the newline character
• When reading, remember to read from right to left for each chunk below. If you wanted the combination ABCD, you would read it BA DC
• Since this is hex, 49 is not followed by 50, but rather 4a (then 4b, 4c, up to 4f, then 50). Use the google calculator above if you need help

0000010 0a0a 4141 0a41 4242 0a42 4343 0a43 4444
0000020 0a44 4545 0a45 4646 0a46 4747 0a47 4848
0000030 0a48 4949 0a49 4a4a 0a4a 4b4b 0a4b 4c4c
0000040 0a4c 4d4d 0a4d 4e4e 0a4e 4f4f 0a4f 5050
0000050 0a50 5151 0a51 5252 0a52 5353 0a53 5454
0000060 0a54 5555 0a55 5656 0a56 5757 0a57 5858
0000070 0a58 5959 0a59 5a5a 0a5a

The above has been clipped from the entire message. Here we can see without a doubt, that the letters are sequential right from 41 to 5a, or A to Z with no surprises such as \/ (5c 2f) instead of V.

Also note, the letter L in lower case is 6c. 6c does not appear where one would expect to see i, which is 49.

Other possibilities include finding things such as KKK. While the KKK is wrong, I don’t think this is the point of this exercise.

Please can we put the constant questions to rest?

For further information, have a look at this hex / character table.

openssl s_client -connect www.pcfinancial.ca:443 -state

This command takes place of telnet “www.google.ca 80″ in that openssl negotiates all the key junk for you, and allow you to hack test https webservers.

Step 1: Record the remote codes from the Extremeview. This proved to be the most difficult step, since I don’t normally use a remote with my myth machines. Configuring LIRC to use any of my hardware was a royal pain. Finally the codes have been recorded, and are available here

# Please make this file available to others
# by sending it to <lirc@bartelmus.de>
#
# this config file was automatically generated
# using lirc-0.8.2(default) on Sun Aug 26 16:14:43 2007
#
# contributed by Allen Chemist
#
# brand: ExtremeView xv3300 Satellite Receiver
# model no. of remote control: One with four coloured buttons below the up,down,left,right,ok area.
# devices being controlled by this remote: Satellite STB
#

begin remote

name extreme2
bits 16
flags SPACE_ENC|CONST_LENGTH
eps 30
aeps 100

header 8967 4466
one 512 1726
zero 512 593
ptrail 512
repeat 8969 2226
pre_data_bits 16
pre_data 0×807F
gap 107644
toggle_bit_mask 0×0

begin codes
MUTE 0xEA15
POWER 0xFA05
TV_RADIO 0xF807
CC 0×10EF
SAT_LIST 0xE817
TV_SAT 0xDA25
FAV 0×9867
CH_LIST 0×6897
MENU 0×38C7
GUIDE 0×58A7
INFO 0×28D7
EXIT 0×52AD
CH_UP 0×18E7
VOL_DN 0×827D
OK 0xA25D
VOL_UP 0×926D
CH_DN 0×629D
PAUSE 0×906F
ZOOM 0xB04F
AUDIO 0×00FF
SLEEP 0×30CF
1 0×6A95
2 0×5AA5
3 0×7A85
4 0xAA55
5 0×9A65
6 0xBA45
7 0×2AD5
8 0×1AE5
9 0×3AC5
0 0xD827
FIND 0xB847
TIMER 0×40BF
MOSAIC 0xA857
RECALL 0×42BD
CH_3_4 0×807F
SIGNAL 0×7887
end codes
end remote

Once this was recorded, I setup lirc to use lirc_serial and the irblaster (Yes this would have been easy to build, but given my history with LIRC I wanted something I knew would work). I put the above file in /etc/lirc/lircd.conf. You can test by issuing the command
irsend SEND_ONCE extreme2 POWER
which should cycle the power on the set top box.

Step 2 was to setup the channel changer shell script, so mythtv could say “Change to channel 321″, then the script splits the 321 into 3-2-1 and blinks the codes out. The script is below:

#!/bin/sh
REMOTE_NAME=extreme2
for digit in $(echo $1 | sed -e ’s/./& /g’); do
/usr/bin/irsend SEND_ONCE $REMOTE_NAME $digit
sleep 0.6 # note, you may have to tweak this if it misses digits
done

/usr/bin/irsend SEND_ONCE $REMOTE_NAME OK
/usr/bin/irsend SEND_ONCE $REMOTE_NAME EXIT

The above script was copied from the internet, but I can’t locate the original author. I also added an “OK” and “Exit” to the end of the script, to force it to change channels faster, and get rid of the OSD so you don’t see it at the beginning of the recording.

I put this in /usr/bin/change_channel.sh.

Step 3: update my lineups at schedulesdirect. This will take a long time, since I don’t get all dish network channels, and picking and choosing what I receive from the 100s of channels dish offers.

Step 4: Configure mythtv to switch inputs. This was done inside mythtv-setup. Since I will be using my Hauppauge 350 capture card, this was already setup and recording cable tv. I plugged the satellite into the s-video input, then added the Satellite into ‘Video Sources’ screen using DataDirect. Under Input Connections, I linked S-Video with the Satellite defined in the Video Sources. On this screen I also specified the change_channel.sh script from above, as the external channel change command. Since I am using s-video, I don’t have to define a “Preset Tuner to Channel”, this is used if you needed to watch satellite on “channel 3″, using the TV Tuner input. During heavy rain, because I am so far north and have such a small dish, the satellite loses signal. I set the “Input Priority” on this screen to a negative number, then if there is a conflict between something on cable and something on satellite, Myth will choose cable (since it is more reliable).

From here everything worked nicely. Occasionally it tunes to the wrong channel (i.e. misses a digit from the IR blaster), but this is rare. A bit of tweaking on either the delay between digits or the position of the IR LED should fix this problem.

I had to get myself one of these machines! In Germany, they are relatively cheap and the cartridges of CO2 are refillable. This is not the case in Canada. The cartridges are expensive, and each company has their own style of doing cartridges. Clearly this wouldn’t do.

Then Chris found a solution online. Mr. Kinch’s instructions are very detailed, and overall the project looked quite simple to do. My experiences were pretty much the same, but with a few tweaks on the system.

Chris and I quickly headed for Princess Auto to get some parts

• 0-100 PSI Gauge: $2 (to monitor the bottle pressure)
• Valve, T, and various pipe bits: $10
• Quick-release ends: $10 (for the bottle and disconnect)
• Food-grade hose: $10
• Regulator: $50 (+ $35 shipping/duty…thanks UPS)
• CO2 Tank: $40/year on lease
• CO2: $35 / 20lbs (should last a few years, if things don’t leak)

Canada uses the CGA-320 for CO2 containers, which is handy. Regulators are difficult to find, and we had to order ours from the US. We decided on MicroMatic, because they had some of the best prices. Unfortunately they ship with UPS, and once again we had a bad UPS experience with their expensive brokerage fees.

Construction:
First we started with the caps. We knew these were going to be the most difficult part of the build, since it required modification of a pop lid ill-fit for the purpose of having a hole in it.

After drilling out the cap, inserting the nipple and a bolt to hold it tightly, we have a first version of the cap. It still leaks, so a new project will be re-designing the cap. We decided to use re-enforced tubing between the regulator and shutoff valve, and regular tubing between the shutoff valve and the bottle. This way, should something happen with the regulator, the tube after the valve should break first, rather than the bottle. The completed lid assembly can be seen here:

The valve assembly was essentially assembled by us in the store. Once home, we needed to undo each connection, add some Teflon tape, and tighten securely. Teflon tape comes in two types, one for gas and another for anything else. For the purposes of this project, either type will do. Since we have the garden-variety Teflon tape available, it is what we used. Regular Teflon tape shreds as you screw the pipes together, leaving bits of Teflon in the line. In a gas system, this can be problematic if a small chunk of tape gets lodged in an appliance. The final valve assembly can be seen below:

Note the reinforced tubing leading up to the valve. Since this side will always contain pressure, we decided to use reinforced tubing here. Below is the final project, hooked up to the CO2 tank and regulator assembly:

Overall this was a fun project. The instructions from http://www.truetex.com/carbonation.htm were great. When carbonating the water, I use 35PSI and I shake it for 40 seconds with the tap on and 40 seconds with the tap off. This provides for a bit more carbonation in the water when complete.

Still to do:

• Re-design the cap. The current cap leaks a little, and when shaking sometimes water flows back up the fill hose (may become problematic when carbonating apple juice or other sticky substances).
• Build a nice cabinet to hide the CO2 tank and extend the countertop
• Add a Reverse Osmosis system to purify the tap water and remove the odour.

http://www.muzik.ca/gpsdata/parse.php

The XML files were logged by the Sunset GPS Tracker (mentioned previously) running on my Windows Mobile (yuck!…well actually it works quite well) and a Hollux GPSlim bluetooth receiver. While in Germany, I had the receiver on my person very often, and I logged many of the trips I did. The log took a way-point every 5 seconds (so you can calculate how quickly I was going by the difference in the waypoints!). “Parse.php” takes the xml file (actually a .gpx file), and extracts the coordinates and puts them on a google map.

Unfortunately it will crash your browser if you have too many points (~300) on your current viewport. Some of my files have lots of way points (5000+), so you still need to choose which leg of the journey you wish to see (0-300 is the default starting position). On my list of todos is to discard “duplicate” points (that is a point within a short distance from its previous point). Also todo is to be able to name a journey (rather than 2007-05-14_…gpx, name it “Trip to Hann-Munden).

When time permits